These are the two big draws of northern Vietnam, and they could hardly be more different. One is calm water, limestone towers and a cabin with a view. The other is switchback roads, mountain passes and villages you reach by hours of driving. Most travellers have time for one. Here's how to choose, and how to fit both in if you can.
The short version
Ha Long Bay: easy, scenic and comfortable. About 2.5 hours from Hanoi, one or two nights on a boat. Best for first-timers, couples and anyone who wants the postcard without the effort.
Ha Giang Loop: remote, dramatic and demanding. A 350 km circuit of the far north, four or five days, long winding roads. Best for adventurous travellers who have already seen the classics.
Doing both: possible on a trip of ten days or more, with a night back in Hanoi in between.
Two different kinds of northern Vietnam
Ha Long Bay and the Ha Giang Loop both give you limestone, but in opposite settings. In Ha Long the karsts rise out of jade-coloured water and you see them from a boat. In Ha Giang they form a high plateau, and you see them from the road, looking down into gorges.
The practical gap is the distance. Ha Long is about two and a half hours from Hanoi by expressway. Ha Giang is a five to six hour journey just to reach the starting town, and the loop itself takes four or five days at a comfortable pace.
Ha Long Bay: the easy classic
Well over a thousand islands, a UNESCO listing, and a routine that suits almost everyone: kayak into a lagoon, visit a cave, watch the sun set from the deck and wake up on the water. There's nothing to plan and very little effort involved, which is why it works for families, couples and travellers of every age.
The catch is that it's popular, and midday crowds at the best-known stops are real. Staying overnight, choosing a boat with a quieter route and going in the right season all help. If you're weighing the bay itself against the island next to it, our guide to Ha Long Bay or Cat Ba Island goes into that.
The Ha Giang Loop: the long way round
The Ha Giang Loop is a circuit of roughly 350 kilometres through Vietnam's far north, close to the Chinese border. It runs across the Dong Van Karst Plateau, a UNESCO Global Geopark, over the Ma Pi Leng Pass high above the Nho Que River, and through villages of the H'mong, Dao, Tay and other communities. The scenery is rawer and bigger than Ha Long's, and there are far fewer people.
It's also a serious trip. The roads are steep and winding, the days are long, and the weather can change quickly at altitude. That's part of the appeal, but it's worth being honest with yourself about your energy and your tolerance for hours on the road.
How people actually do the loop
There are three main ways. You can ride a rented motorbike yourself, which suits experienced riders and nobody else, because the roads near the pass are technical and accidents do happen. You can ride pillion with a local driver, often called an easy rider. Or you can go by car or jeep with a driver, which is the comfortable option and the one we'd suggest for most travellers over about forty-five. A car doesn't get the wind in your face, but it does mean stopping for photographs whenever you like.
However you go, pack warm layers even in autumn, and make sure your travel insurance covers adventure activities.
Side by side
| Ha Long Bay | Ha Giang Loop | |
|---|---|---|
| Scenery | Water and limestone karsts | Mountains, passes, gorges and terraces |
| From Hanoi | About 2.5 hours | 5–6 hours to Ha Giang town |
| Time needed | 1–2 nights | 4–5 days, plus the journey up |
| Effort | Low | Medium to high, long days on the road |
| Comfort | Cabin, meals on board | Simple guesthouses and homestays |
| Crowds | Busy | Quiet, but growing every year |
| Best months | Oct–Dec, Mar–May | Sep–Nov, Mar–Apr |
Ha Long Bay or the Ha Giang Loop: which should you choose?
Choose Ha Long Bay if you have a week or less, want comfort, or it's your first time in Vietnam. Choose the Ha Giang Loop if you have at least five spare days and enjoy long drives and simple homestays.
Pick Ha Long Bay if you want comfort, if you're travelling as a couple or with family, if it's your first time in Vietnam, or if you have a week or less. It delivers the big view with almost no friction.
Pick the Ha Giang Loop if you have time, you enjoy long drives and simple accommodation, and you'd rather see remote villages and markets than a famous bay. It's also the better choice if you've already done Ha Long and want something completely different.
Want mountains without five days on the road? Sapa, reached by overnight train or a five-hour drive, gives you rice terraces and hill-tribe villages in two or three days; see things to do in Sapa. Pu Luong is closer still, and our quieter alternatives to Ha Long covers it.
When to go
Ha Long is at its best from October to December and again from March to May, with calm water and clearer skies. Typhoons can disrupt July and August. The Ha Giang Loop is best from September to November, when the rice is golden and the buckwheat flowers come out, with a second good window in March and April. Winter mountain fog and cold make the roads harder.
October is the sweet spot for both, which is good news if you're planning something now. Our guide to the best time to visit Vietnam has the full month-by-month picture.
Doing both
On ten to twelve days it works. Start in Hanoi, do a night or two in Ha Long, come back to Hanoi for a rest night, then head north for the loop. The Old Quarter guide covers the city between the two, and our northern Vietnam itinerary shows how a week in the north fits together. Choosing a boat? Read the Ha Long Bay cruise guide first.
Where pickleball fits
Hanoi is the pickleball base for the whole north, and both trips fit around it. Play in the morning before the drive, and save the long road for the afternoon. Our Hanoi and Ha Long trip does exactly that: a session in Hanoi, a night on the bay, and a doubles round-robin when you're back. The guide to pickleball in Hanoi covers the courts. We don't run the Ha Giang Loop as a tour, but if it's on your list, message us and we'll tell you honestly how it would fit around a game.
The bay, with a paddle in your bag
Play in Hanoi, sleep on Ha Long Bay, and let us sort the transfers. Private trips, no fixed departures, from $1,250 per person, twin share, land only.
See the Hanoi & Ha Long tourHa Long Bay vs Ha Giang: FAQ
How many days do you need for the Ha Giang Loop?
Four to five days at a comfortable pace for the roughly 350 km circuit, plus five to six hours each way between Hanoi and Ha Giang town.
Is the Ha Giang Loop safe?
It's safe with an experienced local driver. The roads near the Ma Pi Leng Pass are steep and technical, so only experienced riders should drive a motorbike themselves. Going by car or jeep with a driver is the comfortable option, and your travel insurance should cover the activity.
Can you do the Ha Giang Loop by car?
Yes. A private car or jeep with a driver follows the same route and stops wherever you want photos. It's the option we suggest for most travellers over about 45.
Is Ha Long Bay worth it if it's crowded?
Yes, if you stay overnight and choose a boat with a quieter route. You'll have the bay before the day boats arrive and after they leave. Going in autumn or spring and avoiding weekends helps too.
Can I do Ha Long Bay and Ha Giang in one trip?
Yes, on ten to twelve days. Do one or two nights in Ha Long, rest a night in Hanoi, then travel north for the loop.
The bottom line
Ha Long Bay is the easy yes, and the Ha Giang Loop is the bigger adventure. If you only have time for one and you want comfort, choose the bay. If you have the days and the appetite, the mountains will stay with you longer.
Find a game in Vietnam
Join Pickleball in Vietnam, our free Facebook group. Ask about courts, find a morning game and swap tips with players who live here.
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